NH to Alaska

Northway, AK to Anchorage

Anchorage to Tok, AK

Tok, AK to Brookings, OR

Home to New Hampshire

Saturday, August 14, 2010

August 13th












THE WEATHER: It was a chilly 39 degree start this morning. By 11:30 it had jumped up 30 degrees and by 2:30 it was a balmy 82!! The sun has been shining all day.

THE DISTANCE: 150 miles from Lake Dease to Hyder, AK

SURPRISE!!! We’re back in Alaska! We had no idea that you could access Alaska this far south! We heard about this place from the campground owner in Skagway. He told us we had to stop there on our way through to watch the bears! It’s the southern most accessible Alaskan town by road and its claim to fame is, “It’s where the bears are!!!”

We covered another 150 miles of the 450 mile Cassiar Highway today. It was a beautifully clear day except the mountains were obscured by smoke from the wild fires. It looked like haze on a hot, humid summer day. The vegetation became thick with large trees on both sides of the road made it feel almost claustrophobic. We’re so use to the open alpine terrain! We’ve also noticed new flowering bushes we haven’t seen before. They are bright red huckleberry bushes. The stark contrast from all the green surrounding it makes it stand out as we pass them by.

When we turned the corner to drive east on Highway 37A towards Hyder, it became like Shangri-la. There were waterfalls all around us, high snow capped peaks, a glacier flowing down to the road, cliffs that we cut through but couldn’t see the tops of, because they rose so sharply. This is a town of 100 people, and the sign that was posted on the general store reads, “Hyder, a place of about 100 happy people”. I can see why. We also caught a glimpse of 3 black bear, 2 cubs and a larger one, all separately along the road. For one reason or another we were unable to photograph them. Oh, did I forget to mention the streams full of salmon, trout and bear that can be watched safely from a boardwalk built above their feeding grounds? We’ll be here a few days while Gary tries to catch a chum salmon.

We spent about an hour at the boardwalk tonight. We got into a conversation with a couple who are staying in the camper next door to us. Nice people from Virginia. We were there chatting for about 30 minutes when a big black bear was spotted under the bridge. Every one, with cameras posed, waiting and watching intently while the bear stood vigilant over the water full of salmon swimming up stream. He was almost motionless for about 20 minutes when all of a sudden he lunged into the water and came up with about a 10 pound salmon. He sauntered over to the shore but just before he got to the bank the fish wiggled just the right way and freed himself from the jaws of the hungry bear! Amazing to watch. Everyone on the boardwalk gave out a simultaneous moan, feeling bad for the bear. It was better than watching a movie… except much, much shorter.

BTW: For those who are interested, I updated a few of the posts now that I have better internet access and added some pictures to Aug. 8, 9 & 11.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

August 12th









The day started out at 44 degrees and a beautiful, brilliant sun came pouring through the pines. It is amazing how being greeted by the sun rather than clouds can really make a difference in your outlook for the day! The high today was 85. The warmest temp we've seen since leaving.

We began by backtracking 12 miles to the much anticipated Cassiar Highway. We were told of its remoteness and beauty. We have looked forward to experiencing it ever since friends of ours told us about their trip 3 years ago. It also boasts of wildlife sightings. As we arrived on the highway, there was a barrier and a guy holding a sign, “STOP”! Oh no, we thought, the road has been closed again. There were 5 cars stopped ahead of us and one of the drivers informed us that there would be a 45 minute wait before a “pilot car” would take us through the burn section of the road. So we waited…. 60 minutes passed before our escort arrived. In the mean time drivers got out of their vehicles for a much needed stretch and that’s when the road stories and fish tales began to roll.

We were ushered 23 miles through mostly burned forest. There were still hot spots smoldering and some small, active burning going on around us. We could see in the distance a huge plume of smoke that indicated the fire was off to our left (east) and quite a distance from the road. There was, however, a thick smell of smoke and for miles after we passed through I could still smell it on my clothes. Someone had said that there has been a total of 50 miles of forest burned already.

This stretch of road did not disappoint us. We were hemmed in on all sides by majestic mountains as we drove thru the forested valley below. There wasn’t much wildlife to see but we did come across 2 mountain goats. There were topaz blue lakes that were so clear I could see straight down to the 40 foot bottom. I have never seen streams run so clear! It’s like looking at glass.

We are currently dry camping on pristine Dease lake in a campground that surprisingly has wifi! We drove a little over 150 miles on the Cassiar and just 6 miles north of Dease.

Pictures:
Pilot car through burn area on Cassiar Hwy
Burn on Cassiar Hwy
Burn area
Hot spots burning
Fire equipment on roadside
2 mountain goats on Cassiar
Gary's dream house in the Yukon
Water's Edge Campground view